An extraordinary personality, Jeremy Scott loves to bask in the heat of the spotlight and make use of his own public image. This native of Kansas City, Missouri, displays an unfaltering determination in the development of his fashion designs. After earning a diploma from the highly demanding Pratt Institute in Brooklyn, the fruit of four years of training in tailoring and pattern-making, he set forth to conquer Paris, a dream he had harboured since the age of fourteen.
Working on his own with the resources at hand, he organised his first fashion show, presented in October 1996 and featured ready-to-wear-couture cut from hospital sheets and crepe bandages. His second collection, “Body Modification”, in March 1997, flew in the face of prevailing trends with ultra-short body-hugging dresses in polyresin. With Scott, the origin of the materials is of no consequence as long as the design and the avant-garde approach shine through: scraps of black leather and garbage bags bedecked with silver zippers set a trashy-chic tone. Following along the same lines, his subsequent collections are all based around a single colour, making them easy to identify for a public that is eager to love or despise them. There is no middle ground with Jeremy Scott and his designs that combine the garish elegance of the nineteen-eighties’ total look with a taste for the unfinished and deconstructionism. His black collection was chosen for a “20/20 Vision Exhibition” in a Paris boutique in September 1997, as seen through the eyes of some twenty talented photographers including Mark Borthwick, Marcus Mam and Ali Madhavi.
In October 1997, the “Rich White Women” collection, devoted to white, took off from the encounter between ready-to-wear and couture, or “avant-garde luxury”. There followed the collection “Contrepied”, all in gold and winner of an ANDAM award, and the candy pink collection with its futuristic debutante gowns pierced with paper-punch holes. Scott’s is a truly spectacular style that pays homage to the unabashed elegance that is possible in the world of luxury and couture.
Black tulle jumpsuit decorated with glued-on black tubes, butterfly sleeves, bloomer legs.
Jeremy Scott (1998)
ANDAM: La Mode Contemporaine, STEIDL
text florence müller photographyola bergengrenstylingmattias karlsson